A Day In A Bhutanese Nunnery
Female voices fervently reciting prayers resound in the air as you approach the Thektshog Kunzangcholing nunnery in Radhi, located at a clearing amidst peaceful natural surroundings, far away from the noise and hullabaloo of town life. The main lhakhang from where the chants are emerging is a white building trimmed with red and gold. Two deer stand astride both sides of the temple entrance and the idol of a deity enclosed in glass guards the front.
The chants linger as you make your way upward towards the teacher’s quarters, just a hair’s breadth away from the lhakhang. Khenpo Pema Jurmey, the head of the nunnery, greets you warmly as soon as he emerges from his room. Over hot cups of tea, he answers questions softly, so that his tone does not jar but mingles with the quiet rhythm of life here.
He says that the nunnery which is of the Nyingmapa order was founded in 1993 by Lam Garab Rinpoche who presently resides at Rangjung. There are around a hundred nuns at the center, some who’ve been there since childhood, others after coming of age and still others who dropped out of formal schools to join the nunnery.
Life here starts at the break of dawn. At 5 in the morning, the nuns have to begin with incense burning and prayers for an hour. Only after that do they have breakfast, a simple meal consisting of rice and tea. Then they are ready for the morning class which lasts till 11 AM. After lunch the afternoon session resumes just as quickly.
During the evening recess, the nuns pour out of the lhakhang in groups and gather on the balcony of the dormitory. They watch you and smile shyly from their places. Some are hesitant to talk and quietly slip away as you approach them. At the primary level the nuns are taught basic grammar and literacy while at the higher level they are taught philosophy and religion. English as a subject was introduced in the curriculum almost a decade back. Basic numeracy also features in their lessons. And when they are not busy with classes or prayers, the nuns spend their time watching movies, going for outings along the rejuvenating countryside or simply studying and revising what they learnt during the course of the day.
Twenty-five-year-old Tashi Choden, has been in the nunnery for ten years now. However, she wields words confidently unlike her coy counterparts. Asked if she finds life at the nunnery tough, she says: “My vision lies for the future that is why I decided to become a nun.” She plans to spend her time in meditation. Orog Travel offers stays at nunneries and monasteries for our guests eager to experience the simplicity, peace and quiet of a spiritual sojourn.